An overnighter in Livigno

Table of contents:

1. Photostory
2. Maps and Stats

Photostory

This is the story of a type of adventure we have been waiting for a long time. We have got already some experience in bike touring as you can read in the blog, and we surely loved every bit of it. However, there is one element that we have been missing so far, which is wilderness – the sensation of being on our own in the Nature.

As a matter of fact, in our Spiez to Luzern 3-days biking trip we experienced bike touring, eating in restaurants and sleeping in small hotels. We have then crossed Sicily from North to South in a 5 days adventure, a lot wilder in some aspects as we were crossing remote rural areas along off-road trails. Same goes for our spectacular 3 days in the Dolomites. We pushed it further in our 2-days overnighter at Mount Gennargentu in Sardinia where we actually slept in a sheepfold, but again under the supervision (and cooking services) of our amazing guides.

It’s late September, and we are in Livigno, one of our absolute favorite mountain locations in the Alps. As the summer is now over, we have basically abandoned the idea of doing any bikepacking at such high altitude. We are spending our worry-free weekend enjoying the views and riding the fun flow trails on mount Mottolino, when we actually bump into a beautiful bivack, sitting just on the trail connecting Mottolino to Agriturismo Valle delle Mine.

This is the Baitel del Moton da l’Al, which is technically speaking a bivack but practically a super tiny mountain cottage with stone walls, a fire stove, and much more than the typical survival gears. You’ll see the photos down below, so let’s go in order. What matters at this time is that we both stopped and looked at each other, knowing that we had exactly the same idea – coming back the following weekend with our gears and spend a night there!

So here we are one week after the recognition trip, ready for our impromptu overnighter in a bivack. We are super thrilled by the experience, but to some extent also a little worried: will the shelter be available for only ourselves or will we have to share it? Is there going to be enough wood for heating and cooking? What food to bring with us? How much gear should we carry?

As always, the best way to shed all doubts and worries is to just go for it and adjust along the way. The weather is amazing as our luck: this is the 4th year in a row that we find ourselves here in Livigno in mid October together with a pocket of high pressure which makes the temperature spring like and the colors as spectacular as they get in autumn!

Our first challenge is the 400 m climb from Livigno to Passo Eira at 2100 meters, which is a rather short albeit very steep ascent. Maria recalls her fatigue from previous years, and when I offer to drive her up to the pass she doesn’t even blink before accepting the favor. So I give her a lift, unload our gears, drive back down to Livigno and make the climb alone to reach her and get ready.

• 

• 

• 

Our setup is rather simple, albeit probably overpacked. We are both carrying an Evoc bikepack and a handlebar bag each. In the backpack we are stocking food supplies and dry/warm clothes for the night, whilst the outer pocket houses the sleeping bag (a rather heavy and big Decathlon Quechua model for temperatures around 8 degrees Celsius). Finally, we use the bottom strings to strap a light foam pad. The handlebar bag is used for the insulating mattresses, a model from Thermasoft which is very technical and light, but rather big in volume. I also have my Topeak handlebar bag, where I stuff my gas stove and some more food.

Last, but not least, we are carrying some red wine in my bottle to celebrate our adventure.

• 

• 

We are ready to go, and it is a pleasure to be outdoor in such a great day. Maria is however a little low on energy, and she pushes her bike all the way from Passo Eira to the Mottolino chairlift station, which is the highest point for our ride.

It is impossible to get bored in Livigno: if the stunning views are not enough alone, there is also a wrecked fighter plane on the side of the road offering the perfect spot for some cool photos.

• 

• 

• 

After the Mottolino chairlift we take the flow trail heading south. It is part of the bikepark trail system (one of the easiest options) and is perfectly built, allowing super fast speeds and a lot of fun. I find my bike perfect to ride with my gear setup: the handlebar bag wobbles a bit but keeps the weight to the front, making the most of the front suspension and giving great grip to my front wheels. The backpack is sturdy and stable, no different from a normal all-mountain day trip.

• 

• 

• 

After a few kilometers along the super fun ups and downs of the trail, we approach a larch forest. From here, the trail remains rather flowy but includes frequent short steep climbs, where sometimes we push our bike. We are not in any rush though, and it is beautiful to admire the sharp yellow colors of the larch needles contrasting against the backdrop of the deep blue sky.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

At some point we reach a small hut. It is earlier than we expected, and as a matter of fact it is the Baitel da l’Abless – another bivack situated almost 30 minutes earlier than our destination. We check it out and it is not bad: again it features stone walls and large wooden planks to provide bedding, an old cracked firestove and some ready to use firewood.

Despite being tempted to stop here, we decide to push forward. We recalled that Baitel del Moton da l’Al was cozier and more beautiful, even if without any evident sleeping area nor guaranteed firewood.

After some more riding we finally get there: the beautiful Baitel dal Moton da l’Al is conquered! Luckily there is nobody, so we can keep the place for ourselves. The hut is made of stones and has a very homey feeling thanks to its decorations, such as the hand-knit curtains on the small windows, the nice shelves full of books, and the lovely stove providing heating and cooking space.

All great, and finally we are ready to unwind. Well…unfortunately, not just yet! There is no firewood at all here, which means no cooking and no heating for the night! This would not be a tragedy as we are equipped to survive one night out at cold(ish) temperature, but it would surely ruin our plan of cooking a fancy warm dinner and go to bed with our belly full and our bodies warm from the fire.

Luckily there is a bow saw and, despite being at an altitude of 2300 meters above sea level, the top of the forest is just some 50 meters away. We hit the trail and are lucky enough to find a big dead tree with thick and dry branches. In less than one hour we have stockpiled 5 crates of firewood and we can get the stove started. By the way, I have to admit that I miserably failed at lighting the fire with my technique despite many hours spent watching Man vs Wild and reading survival books…thankfully Maria has it on her first go, effortlessly.

• 

• 

It is just the perfect timing. The sun begins to set and, as the shade encompasses us the air turns to chilly almost instantly. We bulk up on our clothing and sip some warm tea.

• 

• 

As the night kicks in we get busy making dinner. We have a bottle of Chianti, some fresh vegetarian ravioli for Maria, a legumes soup and for me a couple of sausages. With our belly full and satisfied we are ready to sleep. The temperature is very warm thanks to the stove (I reckon it never went below 18 degrees), and I actually have to take off many layers of clothes to reach a comfort temperature in my sleeping bag.

• 

• 

The night is short and we are up with the first sun rays. It is incredible to notice that we burned all the 5 crates of firewood through the night – successfully maintaining a pleasant temperature inside the hut whilst outside the thermometer went clearly below freezing.

We are super happy about our adventure and excited for the day ahead, as you can see from the picture!

• 

• 

• 

Early mornings offer the best chances to admire mountain landscapes, as they usually guarantee clear skies. Today is no exception, and look at how sharp Piz Bernina (above 4000 meters) is in the photo below!

After some breakfast we are ready to pack and go. The rest of the ride is a descent along a single track first to Agriturismo delle Mine, and then down to Livigno.

• 

• 

The autumn colors are amazing also today. We reach a fork in the road and we split: Maria prefers the doubletrack road while I opt for the single track to get some adrenaline-filled riding. After some minutes we meet in the beautiful Livigno, feeling bliss for the memorable adventures, and already planning the rest of our day!

• 

• 

Maps and Stats

Download