Summary
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Trail in numbers
- Distance: 20 km
- Total climb: approx. 300 m
- High point: 1349 m
- Rideability: 80%
- Duration: 2 – 3 hours per way
Highlights
- Pristine nature and wilderness. The entire route develops in the Mt. Gennargentu area, a very rural region in Ogliastra that is used mainly by shepherds up to this date. There are no signposted tracks, the area is vast and one would surely get lost without proper navigation tools. The most widespread tree is the juniper, mostly secular. Expect to meet no tourists here – this is definitely off the beaten track.
- Local food delicacies. People here are (rightfully) extremely proud of their local food produce, which tastes absolutely amazing. Their specialties range from dairy products (sheep Ricotta, Pecorino cheese and many more) to cured meat and local wine – all of this is a blast.
- Spaghetti Western setting. Sergio Leone, the inventor of this movie genre that culminated with masterpieces such as “The bad, the good and the ugly” featuring Clint Eastwood and soundtracks by Ennio Morricone, started off here. Many of his first western movies were set in this deserted area.
- Longevity record. In 2016 the nearby town of Villagrande Strisaili won the world record for male longevity. This surely has to do with the slower pace, the nutrition based on wholesome local food and the weather.
- Local hospitality. Last but definitely not least, we had the honor of being guided by two locals, Anna and Gigi, who recently started their venture (Erbelathori trekking) providing guided treks in the area. They have been absolutely fantastic.
Useful info
- When to go: from late March to November. Then you can also trek here in the winter, but expect to find snow
- Directions: nothing is signposted here and you will enjoy much, much more your experience if you go with a guide. Reach out to Erbelathori trekking for an unforgettable adventure.
- Food and Water: the best option is to go on a guided tour so that your guides can arrange amazing local food for you (other than making sure you don’t get lost). If you decide to go wild, make sure you carry everything with you: water, food supplies, stoves and cooking gears.
Table of Contents for this article:
Prologue
It’s March 2018, and Maria and myself are craving to go on another bikepacking adventure. After our Sicily coast to coast unforgettable ride in the same period in 2017, we are determined to repeat the experience in this upcoming spring, and we are thinking of Sardinia. The island is mostly known for its crystal clear waters, its unique beaches and its jet-set glamorous scene, but this region is vast, mostly wild and coarsely populated, so there are for sure options for mountain biking adventures.
There is a very interesting route, the Transardinia, a 500km ride traversing the Island from North to South, but we only have a few days available and this ride would require 7 to 9 days. However, we are attracted by the central section of this route, in the mountain region of Ogliastra.
After doing some research, we decide to spend a couple of days in Ogliastra between the municipalities of Orgosolo and Villanova Strisaili. Lodging options are rare in this area and concentrated in town but there are no huts or lodges in the wild. Therefore, we decide to go bikepacking with everything needed – tent, sleeping bag, and cooking gears.
However, our plan shatters completely a few hours before departure. We are packing our gears in bike bags and cardboard boxes (read here my article on which option is better), when the truth strikes us with undeniable clarity: there is just no way on Earth that we can carry all our camping gears on the plane. Yes, this is a case of poor planning. However, not all is lost: we still have a few hours before our flight and we have a rental a car to reach any place.
While I am busy packing the bikes, I see Maria frantically tapping on her phone and placing a few calls. After a short while, she is engaged on a detailed conversation trying to explain what we are after, and from what I can hear she has found a solution! She randomly found on Google Maps something that looked like a mountain hut and placed the call, just to learn that it was actually a deserted, uninhabited sheepfold in the middle of nowhere. However, it quickly gets more interesting than our highest expectations: we have reached Gigi from Erbelathori Trekking, a small local venture providing guided treks in the Gennargentu area including overnight stays at the sheepfold. We cannot let this opportunity go unnoticed, and we quickly arrange all the details for our adventure: we are back on track towards an unforgettable experience.
Photostory
After a 2 hours drive from Cagliari we meet Anna an Gianluca from Erbelathori Trekking, ready to escort us to the starting point of our ride with their 4×4 pick up truck. We quickly leave the tarmac and carefully drive on the rugged gravel road, and after some time we park our car in a clearing surrounded by old juniper trees.
It is time to begin our ride, so we hop on our bikes and we tackle the gravel road. Anna and Gigi have briefly explained the route, and they are escorting us from the distance on their pick up truck.
The landscape is very wild and dry. There are almost no other towns in the distance, and the juniper forests extend as far as the eye can see.
After a while the road becomes steeper and it is harder to pedal on the loose rocks. The landscape gets a little greener as we enter deeper into a valley.
After approximately one hour of riding we reach a little stream in the woods: now we can benefit from the shadow of the trees, a welcome change especially for Maria who tends to struggle in excessive heat.
We reach a clearing by the river, and this is where the doubletrack road ends. From here, there is only a single track climbing through the forest. It is too narrow and steep to ride, so we slowly push our bikes whilst enjoying the conversation with Anna and Gigi, who never run out of interesting anecdotes and information on these areas.
After a short hike we reach our destination: two old traditional sheepfolds tucked in the middle of the forest, surrounded by a lush vegetation and a view of Punta La Marmora (1864mt, the tallest peak of Mt Gennargentu).
Gigi tells us that this sheepfold has belonged to his family of shepherds for many generations. It was last actively used by his grandfather, but after the spreading of more modern techniques and tools for herding and agriculture, it was left alone for many years. This period took its toll on the structures that almost completely fell apart. However, in recent years, Gigi decided to restore this place and bring it back to the splendor of its original days – and he made an amazing job! Not only he provided a roof and solid walls, but he also built many useful makeshift features around the shelters: a wooden table with benches, a shower (yes, fueled by fresh mountain water), an area for grilling, a fountain, and a garden.
Not only the place is enchanting, but also we are welcomed by an unexpected surprise: a wonderful puppy – just a few weeks old!
Not only there is this beautiful puppy, but also a house cat – unimaginatively named “Gatto” (cat in Italian).
It is still early and the sun is high in the sky, so we go for an explorative walk climbing up closer to the Gennargentu.
The rest of the crew follows us in our walk, and Maria for sure is not unhappy about it!
It is time to head back to camp and prepare dinner and heat up the shelter. First, however, we chill out with a cup of freshly brewed lichen tree.
Needless to say, the dinner is absolutely amazing! Everything is fresh, locally sourced and cooked to perfection on wood fire stoves. Copious wine and local distilled liquors are the cherry on the top, ensuring a sound sleep.
Finally, it is time to go to sleep. Our bedding is made of leaves and our sleeping bags will keep us warm in the chilly April mountain air.
The following morning we wake up energized after the substantial dinner and the good night sleep.
After a quick breakfast we are ready to hit the trail again, but only after taking some more photo memories!
We walked the single track on the way up, but now the story is different: the trail is very flowy and fast, providing a lot of fun!
Once arrived at the clearing by the river, the doubletrack road starts again and takes us rather quickly back towards our car.
Unfortunately we run into a bit of a mechanical problem involving Maria’s chain, but luckily (and thanks to the help of Gigi, whose resourcefulness knows no limit) we get it solved rather quickly.
After a little more than 24 hours, we are back to our car and ready for our next avdenture. This experience in the heart of the Gennargentu has been truly amazing, one that we will remember for many years to come!
Maps and Stats
Max elevation: 1245 m
Total climbing: 1348 m
Trail Video
Relive ‘Ovile abbandonato sul Gennargentu’